A Week Aboard Emperor Serenity: Diving the Central Atolls of the Maldives

In February 2026 I spent a week diving the Central Atolls of the Maldives aboard Emperor Serenity. The trip was filmed on the classic Best of Maldives route: channels, pinnacles (thilas), house reefs, and a few sites that are famous for a reason. We ran nitrox on every dive. I did not see thirty reef sharks in a single frame — not counting the nurse sharks at Alimatha — but mantas showed up on most dives, there was a lot of shark action, and the boat itself was a large part of why the week worked so well.

Emperor Serenity: The Best Boat I Have Stayed On

Emperor Serenity was replaced in 2024 with an upgraded version of the same boat: 40 metres, 13 ensuite cabins, and a separate dive dhoni so the main vessel stays spacious between dives. Stepping on board, it really did feel like a brand-new boat.

It is hands down the best liveaboard I have stayed on. Comfortable, spacious, and run by a crew that made the week easy. I had an under-deck cabin. Lower-deck rooms can make people nervous about fire and getting out, but I still felt safe — the boat is new, the layout is straightforward, and I never felt trapped down there. The climate was near-perfect for diving, though we did have a few properly hot days on deck. If you are looking at Maldives liveaboards, this is the one I would point people toward: Emperor Serenity on LiveAboard.com.

The Diving: Channels, Thilas, and Big Stuff

Maldives diving in the central atolls is built around two kinds of sites. Kandu (channels) bring current, baitfish, and pelagics. Thilas are underwater pinnacles that attract everything from reef fish to sharks and rays. We had both. Mantas showed up on most dives, and there was a lot of shark action throughout the week. One of the best moments was watching a silvertip shark get cleaned — hanging in the water while cleaner fish worked over it.

Nitrox is free on Emperor Serenity, and I used it on every dive. On a week of channels and current, that extra bottom time actually matters.

Coral health was better than I expected in places, especially in North Ari. That was a pleasant surprise. We also spent time searching the South Ari Marine Protected Area for whale sharks. No luck this trip — that is how it goes with wild animals — but the rest of the week more than made up for it.

Chronological Itinerary

Monday: North Malé Atoll

We started close to Malé with Kurumba House Reef and Bodu Hiti Thila. A gentle way into the week: reefs, thila topography, and a first look at the kind of marine life that would follow us for the rest of the itinerary.

Tuesday: Rasdhoo Atoll

Madi Gaa and Madivaru are the kind of sites people book this route for. Rasdhoo is known for current, sharks, and mantas — and this week the mantas were not a one-off. This was where the trip shifted from “nice reef diving” into “this is why you do a liveaboard.”

Wednesday: North Ari Atoll

Maavaru Madi Gaa, Maaya Thila, and the Fesdu Wreck & Lagoon. North Ari was a highlight for coral. Maaya Thila is one of the best-known night-dive sites in the Maldives, and Fesdu adds a wreck into a week that is otherwise all reef and channel.

Thursday: South Ari Atoll

Fish Head (Mushimasmingili), Moofushi Kandu, and Radhi Gaa Thila. Fish Head is a classic grey-reef-shark site, and Moofushi Kandu is a proper channel dive. South Ari is also whale shark territory, so this is where the searching started in earnest.

Friday: South Ari Atoll and Alimatha

Rangali Madivaru, Kuda Rah Thila, and Alimatha Jetty. Alimatha is famous for nurse sharks around the jetty. They were there. They still do not count as thirty reef sharks in one frame.

Saturday: Vaavu Atoll to South Malé Atoll

We finished with Miyaru Kandu in Vaavu Atoll, then Kandooma Thila in South Malé on the way back toward Malé. Miyaru Kandu — “shark channel” — is a high-action way to close the week.

Marine Life Highlights

The week was stacked with animals, even without a whale shark:

• Mantas: on most dives, not just the famous sites.
• Sharks: whitetip, blacktip, grey reef, silvertip, and nurse sharks — plenty of action, including a silvertip on a cleaning station.
• More: stingrays, Napoleon wrasse, moray eels, dolphins, sea turtles, and huge schools of trevally.

That mix is what Maldives liveaboard diving is supposed to be. Not one celebrity animal on one dive, but action that keeps showing up as you move from atoll to atoll.

A Complicated Moment for Sharks

It is a complicated time to be diving with sharks in the Maldives. The government recently lifted a 15-year ban on shark fishing, reopening a gulper shark fishery after decades of protection. I saw plenty of sharks on this trip. That does not make the policy shift any less worrying.

If you want the background, Le Monde covered the decision here. Places like this only stay special if the animals are still there.

Final Thoughts

This was a strong week of diving on a boat I would happily book again. Emperor Serenity felt new, the crew was excellent, and even in an under-deck cabin I felt safe. The Central Atolls delivered mantas on most dives, a lot of shark action, and nitrox on every tank. I did not get the whale shark, and I did not get that mythical wall of reef sharks in one shot. I still came home thinking this is one of the best liveaboard trips I have done.

Watch the full video above for the dives, the boat, and the animals as they actually looked in February 2026.

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Summary:
I spent a week in February 2026 aboard Emperor Serenity, diving the Central Atolls of the Maldives. After its 2024 renovation the boat felt brand new, and it is the best liveaboard I have stayed on — even in an under-deck cabin I felt safe. We used nitrox on every dive, saw mantas on most of them, and had a lot of shark action, including a silvertip getting cleaned. We searched South Ari for whale sharks without luck, but the rest of the week more than made up for it.