Travel

A Week Aboard Emperor Serenity: Diving the Central Atolls of the Maldives

A week on Emperor Serenity in February 2026, running the Best of Maldives route through the Central Atolls. The boat felt new after the 2024 renovation, and the crew made the week easy. A few things I hoped for never showed up.

Two Weeks on Discovery I in the Red Sea

Two weeks on Discovery I, running Brothers, Daedalus, and Elphinstone. Good diving and a crew that worked hard. The cabin stayed hot, the linen was rough, and it was the wrong season for the pelagics a lot of people came for.

Two Weeks in South Africa: Shark Diving, Kelp Forests, and Cape Town

Two weeks based in Cape Town, mostly in kelp. Seals came in close, sharks showed up, and Gansbaai was the cage-dive day.

Night Dive on the Monte Carlo Hotel Reef

Same reef as the day dives, after dark. Octopus, lobster, moray eels, and plankton that lit up when I switched the torch off.

Blue-Spotted Stingrays on the Monte Carlo Hotel Reef

A dive on the Monte Carlo Hotel's private reef in Sharm El-Sheikh. Blue-spotted stingrays on the sand were the animals I stayed with.

A 24-Hour Bus to Petra

I took a 24-hour bus from Sharm El-Sheikh to Petra. The ride was long. The Siq, the Treasury, and the hike up to the Monastery were the reason I did it.

Flying Over the Nazca Lines

A small plane over the Nazca Lines in Peru. Hummingbird, condor, monkey, and a desert full of geometry that still does not have a settled explanation.

Two Weeks in Peru: Salkantay, Machu Picchu, and the Nazca Lines

Two weeks in Peru: the Salkantay trek, Machu Picchu, a flight over the Nazca Lines, and a few days in Lima for food and museums.

A Week on São Miguel: Diving, Driving, and Seafood

A week on São Miguel in the Azores. Mixed visibility underwater, a rental car for Sete Cidades and Furnas, and seafood that was the easy part of the trip.

Two Weeks in the Galapagos

Two weeks in the Galapagos: giant tortoises, flamingos on Isabela, a hike to the rim of Sierra Negra, sea lions on a snorkel, and hammerheads at Gordon's Rock.

Manta Point, Ten Years Later

I went back to Manta Point in Bali ten years after the first dive, this time with a camera. The mantas were still there. So was a lot more plastic.